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Dans ces moments-là, je trouve utile de me rappeler que la météo ne me regarde pas. Les saisons changent et nous y participons au même titre que l’ail des bois, les érables et les ours qui sortent d’hibernation. L’ail des bois annonce le printemps, nourrit les érablières et fait vivre les cueilleurs : il dépasse largement sa simple utilité culinaire. Et pour moi, la première petite pousse qui annonce le printemps suffit amplement.","absoluteBoundingBox":{"x":16626.0,"y":1740.63305664062,"width":265.0,"height":391.0},"isolatedAbsoluteRenderBounds":{"x":16625.794921875,"y":1745.08764648438,"width":264.255859375,"height":383.818115234375},"relativeTransform":[[1.0,0.0,0.0],[0.0,1.0,4256.43359375]],"size":{"x":265.0,"y":391.0},"fills":[{"blendMode":"NORMAL","type":"SOLID","color":{"r":0.0,"g":0.0,"b":0.0,"a":1.0},"visible":true,"opacity":1.0}],"strokeAlign":"OUTSIDE","layoutAlign":"STRETCH","strokes":[],"effects":[],"accessibleHTMLTag":"AUTO","isDecorativeImage":false,"ariaAttributes":{},"interactions":[],"characterStyleOverrides":[],"characters":"Le délire du printemps est sur le point de nous frapper encore une fois, aussi prévisible que le calendrier. Dans ces moments-là, je trouve utile de me rappeler que la météo ne me regarde pas. Les saisons changent et nous y participons au même titre que l’ail des bois, les érables et les ours qui sortent d’hibernation. L’ail des bois annonce le printemps, nourrit les érablières et fait vivre les cueilleurs : il dépasse largement sa simple utilité culinaire. Et pour moi, la première petite pousse qui annonce le printemps suffit amplement.","lineIndentations":[0],"lineTypes":["NONE"],"listStartOffsets":[],"lineStyleOverrides":[0],"lineTextDirections":null,"textAutoResize":"HEIGHT","style":{"fontFamily":"Inter","fontPostScriptName":null,"fontStyle":"Regular","textAutoResize":"HEIGHT","fontVariantPosition":"NORMAL","fontSize":16.0,"textAlignHorizontal":"LEFT","textAlignVertical":"TOP","letterSpacing":0.0,"letterSpacingValue":0.0,"letterSpacingUnit":"PERCENT","lineHeightPx":23.2000007629395,"lineHeightPercent":119.812210083008,"lineHeightPercentFontSize":145.0,"lineHeightUnit":"FONT_SIZE_%","paragraphSpacing":0,"paragraphIndent":0,"listSpacing":0,"italic":false,"textCase":"ORIGINAL","textDecoration":"NONE","textDecorationSkipInk":false,"textDecorationStyle":"solid","textTruncation":"DISABLED"},"styleOverrideTable":{}},"182:1015":{"type":"TEXT","id":"182:1015","name":"Au Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres. Ça ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier. L’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves. Au Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement. Pourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons. Dans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice : Pendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre. Starlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 : Il s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel. Dans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. » Au XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres.\n\nÇa ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier.\n\nL’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves.\n\nAu Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement.\n\nPourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons.\n\nDans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice :\n\nPendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre.\n\nStarlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 :\n\nIl s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel.\n\nDans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. »\n\nAu XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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Dans ces moments-là, je trouve utile de me rappeler que la météo ne me regarde pas. Les saisons changent et nous y participons au même titre que l’ail des bois, les érables et les ours qui sortent d’hibernation. L’ail des bois annonce le printemps, nourrit les érablières et fait vivre les cueilleurs : il dépasse largement sa simple utilité culinaire. 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Les saisons changent et nous y participons au même titre que l’ail des bois, les érables et les ours qui sortent d’hibernation. L’ail des bois annonce le printemps, nourrit les érablières et fait vivre les cueilleurs : il dépasse largement sa simple utilité culinaire. Et pour moi, la première petite pousse qui annonce le printemps suffit amplement.","lineIndentations":[0],"lineTypes":["NONE"],"listStartOffsets":[],"lineStyleOverrides":[0],"lineTextDirections":null,"textAutoResize":"HEIGHT","style":{"fontFamily":"Inter","fontPostScriptName":null,"fontStyle":"Regular","textAutoResize":"HEIGHT","fontVariantPosition":"NORMAL","fontSize":16.0,"textAlignHorizontal":"LEFT","textAlignVertical":"TOP","letterSpacing":0.0,"letterSpacingValue":0.0,"letterSpacingUnit":"PERCENT","lineHeightPx":23.2000007629395,"lineHeightPercent":119.812210083008,"lineHeightPercentFontSize":145.0,"lineHeightUnit":"FONT_SIZE_%","paragraphSpacing":0,"paragraphIndent":0,"listSpacing":0,"italic":false,"textCase":"ORIGINAL","textDecoration":"NONE","textDecorationSkipInk":false,"textDecorationStyle":"solid","textTruncation":"DISABLED"},"styleOverrideTable":{}},"182:1000":{"type":"TEXT","id":"182:1000","name":"Au Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres. Ça ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier. L’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves. Au Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement. Pourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons. Dans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice : Pendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre. Starlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 : Il s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel. Dans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. » Au XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres.\n\nÇa ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier.\n\nL’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves.\n\nAu Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement.\n\nPourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons.\n\nDans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice :\n\nPendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre.\n\nStarlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 :\n\nIl s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel.\n\nDans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. »\n\nAu XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres. Ça ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier. L’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves. Au Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement. Pourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons. Dans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice : Pendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre. Starlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 : Il s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel. Dans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. » Au XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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Canada, quand la température grimpe au-dessus de −10 °C, une étrange maladie collective s’installe : le délire du printemps. Soudain, les yeux des Canadiens prennent un éclat chaleureux et ils se mettent à errer dans les rues, parkas entrouvertes, en se demandant pourquoi les terrasses des restaurants ne sont pas encore ouvertes. On est au début mars et, même si on le sait tous au fond de nous, le délire du printemps nous empêche d’admettre qu’il reste encore au moins deux tempêtes de neige avant qu’on commence à voir des bourgeons dans les arbres.\n\nÇa ne m’empêche pas de planifier mes visites printanières au marché ! Pour la plupart des habitués des marchés publics, les fraises et les asperges annoncent le début de la saison au Québec. Moi, j’attends avec impatience — environ un mois plus tôt — les têtes de violon, la rhubarbe et les tiges d’ail. Quand j’habitais en Ontario, par contre, c’était l’ail des bois qui arrivait le premier.\n\nL’ail des bois, ou ramps, est peut-être le seul allium que j’aie vu déclencher une véritable frénésie. Dans les marchés fermiers de l’Ontario, des enthousiastes déboursent 15 $ pour de petits sacs de pousses blanches surmontées de feuilles vertes, avec des rêves de pâtes fraîches aux ramps plein la tête. Les oignons sont omniprésents et abondants, mais les ramps n’apparaissent que l’espace de quelques battements de cœur au début du printemps. Leur goût d’oignon est doux et verdoyant, et ils comblent ce besoin de fraîcheur verte qu’on ressent à la fin d’un long hiver dominé par les courges et les betteraves.\n\nAu Québec, l’ail des bois est classé comme espèce menacée par le gouvernement, et on ne peut pas en acheter sur les marchés. Je l’ai appris d’un vendeur de champignons particulièrement bourru au marché Jean-Talon, qui m’a regardée comme si j’essayais de lui acheter de la drogue dure quand j’ai demandé de l’ail des bois. L’ail des bois pousse lentement et peut prendre cinq à sept ans avant de fleurir, un rythme qui ne peut pas suivre la demande croissante. Les sites connus où il pousse en abondance sont protégés, mais il reste menacé par la déforestation et le développement.\n\nPourtant, l’ail des bois occupe une place importante dans l’histoire et l’écologie de ce continent. Il pousse dans les forêts, au pied des érables. Quand ses feuilles se décomposent, elles libèrent des minéraux qui nourrissent les racines des arbres. Sa saison coïncide avec celle de la récolte de l’eau d’érable. Depuis longtemps, l’ail des bois est aussi une source fiable de nourriture et de remèdes, autant pour les Premières Nations que pour les colons.\n\nDans son magnifique roman Starlight, l’auteur ojibwé Richard Wagamese fait une brève apparition de l’ail des bois alors que le personnage principal prépare le souper pour une famille dans le bois. La scène de préparation, décrite sur plusieurs pages, est paisible et évocatrice :\n\nPendant que le poisson cuisait, il alla cueillir de l’herbe épaisse dans une zone marécageuse où un petit ruisselet descendait de la crête. Il revint au feu, s’assit et tressa les brins en un tapis lâche. Roth avait rempli une grande marmite d’eau et l’avait déposée à côté du feu. Starlight plaça le tapis au-dessus des flammes et y déposa les verdures, les champignons et les poireaux que Roth avait coupés et tranchés. Puis il posa le couvercle sur le tapis et attendit. Le soleil descendit plus bas. L’ombre recommença à gagner la terre.\n\nStarlight s’enfonce dans la forêt pour préparer le repas et n’apporte aucune nourriture avec lui, sachant qu’il trouvera sur place ce dont il a besoin. La perspective des colons est moins généreuse. Voici un passage que j’ai trouvé dans The History of Stanstead County, Province of Quebec, publié en 1874 :\n\nIl s’était entendu avec un homme de Derby pour un ravitaillement temporaire destiné aux enfants, et l’avait payé pour faire transporter les provisions jusqu’à Barnston; mais, par malhonnêteté ou par négligence, elles n’y furent pas acheminées. Entre-temps, les enfants furent réduits presque à la famine. Pendant plusieurs semaines, ils durent subsister uniquement de poireaux ou d’oignons sauvages, d’écorce de bouleau grattée, et des quelques poissons qu’ils pouvaient prendre dans le ruisseau — sans sel.\n\nDans Starlight, une petite famille entre dans le bois sans aucune nourriture et y prépare un festin reconnaissant de poisson et d’ail des bois. Dans l’autre récit, les enfants souffrent dans des conditions identiques. Les colons voient leur survie à travers la gestion et le contrôle du territoire, là où Wagamese nous montre que la terre pourvoit. Comme le dit Starlight : « Là-bas, c’est la meilleure épicerie qui soit. »\n\nAu XIXᵉ siècle, les colons considéraient l’ail des bois comme une mauvaise herbe et recommandaient d’empêcher les vaches d’en brouter, parce qu’il donnait mauvais goût au lait. Ironiquement, aujourd’hui, le beurre à l’ail des bois est l’une des utilisations les plus connues de cette plante. La « solution » à son abondance a été la déforestation. « On le trouve généralement à proximité des bois, et il disparaît graduellement à mesure que les forêts sont défrichées. », écrivait le Montreal Herald en 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